1920’s Style: Two-Tone Oxfords
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In the last post I gave a hint of the inspiration to Mayann’s wardrobe, and today we’ll take a closer look at her dear friend Lou’s shoebox. *** Two tone men’s suede and leather Oxford shoes, 1925-36. Learn more at 24hourmuseum.org.uk |
Wingtips, spectators, two-tones… A dear child has many names, and these babies have had a special spot in the fashionable 20th century Westerner’s heart. In Chapter 2 of Goldenbird, Lou is sporting a fashionable outfit complete with these babies. Now, a wingtip isn’t necessarily black and white, and something referred to as a “spectator” shoe isn’t necessarily an Oxford. A true shoe snob needs to do her research.
If you believe this article at Atomic Magazine, and what retro snob wouldn’t want to, spectators are strictly spoken only Oxfords, and should not be worn before Memorial Day and after Labor Day (remember, those Commie-fearing Americans put their own Labour Day in the autumn, so that nobody would confuse it with manifestations of workers’ rights, international solidarity and similar pinko propaganda). The spectator is a summer shoe, and was popularized by Prince Edward of Wales at classy golf courses during the 1920’s. Oxford wingtips often come in monochrome hues, but the showy contrast effect of the two-tone (similar to the effect of wearing shiny white spats*) came to be associated with show-business, zoot suits and gangsters (as well as at least one president of the United States of America).
For a long time, the two-tone style was considered too flashy or retro to be fashionable (except for lindy-hop dancers), but along with the random “vintage” revival of practically every style from the year 2000 and backwards, it seems that the spectators are back again (although Chanel has always kept the faith). Especially for ladies, there are many different varieties available, from platforms and fetish heels to tango pumps, mary janes and proper Oxfords. And for the traditional-minded men, there’s Stacy Adam’s.
Important note: These shoes (on the gent to the far left) are correctly referred to as saddle shoes, while these are rather the conventional variety of spectators.
*) Which, incidentally, makes me think of George Raft, here in a frilly shirt (as Joe Martin in “Rumba”).
